TinyHouse43's Building Blog

From Texas-sized 2 Tiny House For Three

Protecting Our Barn Raiser From The Elements + Window Reconfiguration Ideas

So, I’ve been doing some more research on our Zip System sheathing, and it turns out they can be left exposed for up to 180 days. Since the house was completed in mid-late April that essentially gives us to mid-August before we MUST install siding. We are planning to have it done well before then, but I’m glad to know we don’t have to rush out and slap some Tyvek over it ASAP like I thought when I read somewhere (incorrectly apparently) that they could only be exposed for 60 days. Phew!

As for the roof, I’m not actually sure if there is already a Grace-type stuck on ice & water shield under our black & green tar paper that the Tumbleweed builders installed, but I do know that we need to get drip edging installed to protect the exposed plywood. I’ve read conflicting info on how to best protect the roof sheathing and prep it for shingles:

1) That we should take off the tar paper and put Grace down then install the drip edge and then put another layer of Grace/tar paper over that before installing shingles

2) That we can lay the Grace over the existing tar paper and then attach the drip edge and cover again with another layer of Grace/tar paper

3) That we should install the drip edge directly onto the existing tar paper and then cover that with Grace/tar paper before shinglingAt least the Zip boards and tar paper are color coordinated! πŸ™‚

The exposed plywood underneath the tar paper will get damaged by rain if we don’t protect it, but hey – at least the Zip boards and tar paper are color coordinated in the meantime! πŸ™‚


All three sound reasonable, really, just to varying degrees of cost and time consumption. My thought was to lay Grace all over the existing tar paper, then attach the drip edge, then apply one more layer of Grace over the edge before applying shingles.

Anyone know what the best method would be? We’re pretty sure one 225sqft roll of Grace HT for $169 will cover the whole roof, including the dormers and hipped roof at the front, and we’re up to doing whatever is necessary/best practice to protect our roof!

Here’s a video I found (no sound) on YouTube that made me want to ask others more savvy with roofing what their advice would be:

Drip Edge Flashing Installation Video

I also found some heavy-duty fish pond liner that we’ll get and cut into a strip wider than the current door opening to act as a door for now. The plastic drop cloth did its job on our way home from Colorado, but repeated entry has left it pretty torn up. We still want to move the doorway forward a few feet to create a mini foyer inside and reduce the amount of wall space lost to the in-swing of the front door, but we need something to help keep rain and bugs out in the meantime.

We’re planning to cut some of the window openings out, too, to allow better ventilation while we work, but since we aren’t ready to buy the actual windows yet we’ll use the same pond liner to make temporary covers for the openings that we can roll up when we’re working and down when we’re not. It looks like we will have to move the back 2 windows (ones closest to the tongue) back a few inches to accommodate the new split bathroom layout we created, or else we’ll have very light-filled closets and super dark bathrooms! πŸ˜‰

The only other window change we will for sure make is to change the first window past the door on the right side of the house into a wide awning window mounted high on the wall to allow for us to mount my iMac to the wall just below. We don’t watch TV, but we do love movies and browse the net of course, so we’re planning to use the iMac as our TV/DVD player and primary computer all in one. It’s the 2011 model that still has the optical drive, and being the 27″ model makes it pretty heavy and wall space-consuming. We figured it best to create a space just for it with extra bracing in the walls, but we don’t want to lose the window light. Moving the widow above it will help keep the great room bright and provide a stable mounting wall.

We’re still kicking around the idea of creating 2 box windows, one on each end of the house, where the egress windows are located. We have 7 window seats in our big house that are all used for a variety of purposes (plant ledges, display ledges, reading nooks, play space for R.A.D to roll his beloved monster trucks on, etc), so we love the idea of finding a way to incorporate those into our tiny house, too. I’d wanted a true garden window on the front of the house, but after feeling and seeing just how much bumping around the house will do while traveling I got too nervous about having a mostly glass window hanging out in space they way they do even with adequate bracing underneath. I could totally see us hitting a pothole and *pop – crash* – the garden window would detach at the top and shatter on the road below.

We think creating a wood framed box window that would still be braced underneath would give a similar feel (or at least a nice ledge for plants anyway) and have the added benefit of remaining an egress window. Garden windows would be permanently attached (until said pothole attacked of course), and the safety rules for RVs require egress beyond just the front door. We’re trying to follow those rules as best as possible for safety sake if not to increase the likelihood of getting the tiny house better insured, too, and we definitely want to make sure there’s an egress in R.A.D’s room in case of emergency. We can box his window out and create a little storage Β “shed” underneath for the battery packs and propane tank for the hot water heater, too. Plus, having the shed below eliminates the need to brace the window underneath, and R.A.D will have a ledge for his monster trucks to cruise and crash on. πŸ™‚

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